Comitato direttivo
Giovanni F. Accolla, Franco Cardini, Domenico Del Nero, Giordano Bruno Guerri, Gennaro Malgieri, Gennaro Sangiuliano, Mirella Serri, Marcello Veneziani.
Stile italiano
Oggi voglio scrivere in merito alla differenza tra lo stile italiano e quello britannico in campo prettamente sartoriale.
Benché sicuramente tutti abbiamo in mente alcune fondamentali regole su queste diverse idee di pensiero, ogni giorno risulta più difficile riscontrarle a causa della globalizzazione della moda e al miscuglio di entrambi gli stili imperanti attualmente.
Oggi transitando in via Roma, a Firenze, possiamo imbatterci in un gentleman che indossa un Anderson & Sheppard gessato, tre pezzi blu scuro.
Nonostante questo, vi sono ancora alcune differenze di base tra i due stili.
Stile inglese
Da ora, e per evitare rimproveri a posteriori, voglio chiedere scusa per la possibile generalizzazione delle differenze -che di seguito esporrò- lasciando un chiaro messaggio che oggi più che mai è molto difficile riuscire a trovare.
Prima di andare ad analizzarle occorre sottolineare che il cosiddetto British Style ha una lunga storia alle spalle, mentre lo Stile Italiano è più recente.
Con certezza tengo a puntualizzare che Napoli senza Savile Row, -la memorabile via londinese (a Westminster), da sempre luogo preferito dai gentlemen della City, sede dei più importanti e conosciuti laboratori sartoriali del mondo, tra cui Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Davies & Sons, Henry Poole & Co e Norton & Sons.,- non avrebbe raggiunto i livelli di qualità e perfezione che oggi ha grazie alle sue sartorie.
Con questo voglio dire che, per quanto a dispetto di qualcuno, lo stile italiano proviene direttamente dallo stile britannico. Gli italiani hanno adattato lo stile classico inglese ai nuovi tempi e l'hanno stilizzato; ed in molti casi, bisogna riconoscerlo, migliorato notevolmente.
Gli italiani, vestono per sembrare attraenti e in noi esiste un certo grado di esibizionismo tipicamente italico. Noi amiamo essere guardati con ammirazione: vogliamo essere il bersaglio degli sguardi dei signori e delle signore.
L’ obiettivo principale è quello di farsi favorire grazie al proprio abito.
Il dandy italiano che cerca di emergere sul resto.
L'abito, la camicia, le scarpe rappresentano per il gentleman nostrano, come potrebbe farlo l'automobile, un determinato status.
Al contrario, quello britannico cerca nel suo abito qualcosa di diverso.
Il gentiluomo inglese preferisce vestire semplicemente all'interno dei parametri che sono stati considerati corretti nel corso di decenni. Gli inglesi perseguono la più che famosa discrezione britannica.
Ciò è dimostrato ancor di più quando si tratta di abbigliamento formale. L’anglosassone sa come e quando indossare uno smoking o un abito da sera. Non è facile trovare un gentiluomo inglese, per esempio, che indossa uno smoking alle 3 del pomeriggio o che lo indossa con una cravatta.
L'abbigliamento inglese non pecca d’individualismo; il suo obiettivo è rispettare perfino le
norme stabilite da generazioni anteriori, essendo relativamente frequente
vedere signori inglesi vestire l'abito del loro padre o addirittura del nonno.
Dalla mia esperienza con entrambi i modelli sartoriali credo di potere
affermare che ci siano due differenze fondamentali nell'abbigliamento classico
di questi due paesi: l'uso del colore e
le dimensioni del capo.
Per il britannico l'abito è di colore scuro, principalmente nelle sue diverse tonalità di azzurri e grigi. Se si tratta di un abito gessato, la riga sarà sempre fine e mai vistosa.
Noi italiani arrischiamo di più nella scelta dei colori e nel disegno del tessuto, soprattutto negli ultimi tempi, le righe di un gessato le pretendiamo solitamente molto larghe e il cui colore emerga visibilmente dal tono predominante. Questa differenza si nota anche nel momento della selezione del colore della camicia e della cravatta e anche in questo frangente l’italiano è molto più generoso nel loro uso.
Un inglese si sente sicuro quando indossa una camicia azzurra e una cravatta blu scuro, senza cercare rischi inutili e può essere così discreto fino a sembrare noioso e uniforme. Il gentleman italiano è molto più individualista, passa più ore davanti al proprio armadio pensando alle varie combinazioni da indossare e non è assolutamente preoccupato di rischiare per la sua bramosia di innovare.
Quindi discrezione e tradizione contro innovazione e coraggio.
Come abbiamo già notato, il gentiluomo inglese è molto sicuro su ciò che è giusto e ciò che non lo è; la sua massima preoccupazione sarà sempre e solo il taglio dell’abito.
Non importa quanto elegante sia il capo che ha nell’ armadio se non ha il taglio perfetto per la sua figura, un ensemble non su misura non sarà mai indossato. Il marchio è sempre secondario, ma naturalmente si presume che sia stato acquistato uscendo dalla porta di una sartoria di Savile Row.
La seconda differenza importante è quella relativa alla dimensione dei capi.
La forma del vestito del gentleman italiano risulta troppo sciancrata. Sembra sia stato lui ad entrare nell’abito, mentre nel caso del gentiluomo inglese è l'abito che lo avvolge.
Ci sono signori italiani che pare abbiano comprato il loro abito agli sconti di gennaio-febbraio e quindi si sono visti obbligati a acquistarne uno di una o due taglie inferiore a quella che veramente dovrebbe corrispondergli.
Questo lo si può osservare sia nella lunghezza della giacca che in quella delle maniche.
Quindi, niente di più facile e orrendo chiudere la giacca e mirare la famosa "X" che non si noterà mai in un gentiluomo inglese.
La giacca di tipo anglosassone è preferita generalmente che scorra sui fianchi. L'effetto di una giacca inglese è molto simile a quella di una clessidra. La stessa cosa la si può osservare nei pantaloni. Nel gentiluomo inglese il pantalone si adagerà sempre sulla scarpa, mentre quello italiano lo preferisce sensibilmente più corto.
La larghezza dei pantaloni è diversa. L’inglese opta
per una larghezza e altezza della scarpa vicino a 24 centimetri, mentre l'italiano
20centimetri e anche meno.
Il fiore all'occhiello della giacca è ancora un tocco di proprietà del Mr. inglese.
I tessuti utilizzati dai sarti italiani sono generalmente più sottili e leggeri rispetto ai britannici, e ciò è spiegabile se confrontiamo le temperature di entrambi i paesi.
La scarpa inglese è più ampia, la sua punta più
arrotondata. Essi propendono ad usare e abbinare ai loro capi scarpe
definiamole difficili, che spesso danno la sensazione di essere a volte anche
un po' rozze. Le scarpe italiane sono più stilizzate, con linee più
sottili, il design raffinato e da sempre danno la sensazione finale di essere
più leggere e calzabili.
Col passare degli anni vedremo quale strada prenderanno questi due stili, ma sembra che alla fine si uniranno e si mescoleranno; sarà quindi molto difficile continuare a parlare di Italian o English Style.
Anche se ancora prevale, per me, lo stile inglese, probabilmente il giusto mix di eleganza britannica e italiana è la formula perfetta per farci sentire dei veri gentleman.
Buona Eleganza a tutti!
Inserito da h m d il 07/12/2023 18:02:26
Thank you for the captivating topic
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Inserito da Sabri-29 il 29/01/2012 18:29:18
Caro LB, bellissimo articolo, senza gretti campanilismi. E' possibile un servizio su come indossare un abito di sartoria nonostante alcuni kg in più ? Richiesta del mio fidanzato . Grazie
Inserito da FABIANO il 28/01/2012 21:47:24
Sarà!!!!!
Inserito da polaroid52 il 28/01/2012 21:09:29
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Inserito da flora70 il 28/01/2012 20:33:55
No,Lord assolutamente no, noi italiani siamo 1000 volte superiori
Inserito da Franca il 28/01/2012 19:13:57
Non sono x niente d'accordo lo stile inglese e' funereo
Inserito da Bastiano il 28/01/2012 16:41:32
Ma per me la sartoria napolitano e' n'atra cossa
Inserito da dereck il 28/01/2012 16:15:02
Insomma ne' usciamo sconfitti. Non lo pensavo
Inserito da LAUDI il 28/01/2012 15:07:47
Si ha pienamente ragione
Inserito da fosco_44 il 28/01/2012 14:45:22
Ognuno veste come crede
Scarpe invernali senza calze. L'orribile moda si ripete annualmente
Perché non abbottoniamo completamente la giacca?
L'ossessione compulsiva per i capelli e il loro taglio perfetto
Il figlio di Pierce Brosnan nuovo protagonista della moda internazionale
Perchè ti ostini ad aggiungere il limone alla mia Coca-Cola?