12 ottobre 1492

La scoperta dell'America e la rivoluzione in cucina

A voi un menù che senza i cibi “americani” non sarebbe stato possibile e che i lettori possono preparare per il pranzo di oggi

di Marina Cepeda Fuentes

La scoperta dell'America e la rivoluzione in cucina

Il 12 ottobre 1492 Cristoforo Colombo e l’equipaggiamento spagnolo delle tre caravelle più celebri della storia dell’umanità, la Pinta, la Niña e la Santa Maria, approdarono alla bella isola di Guanahaní, nel cuore dei Caraibi: “la terra più terra di tutte le terre che marinaio abbia mai visto in vita sua”, avrebbe scritto poi l’Ammiraglio genovese nel suo Giornale di bordo.

Colombo credeva di essere sbarcato su una delle innumerevoli isole del Cipango o del Catai, nel sognato continente asiatico delle spezie e delle ricchezze infinite, nelle terre di Marco Polo, dove le case avevano i tetti d’oro; e nella sua errata convinzione battezzò la nuova terra San Salvador perché, diceva, “il Salvatore mi avrebbe mostrato il luogo dove nasce l’oro”.

Insieme a Colombo misero piede a terra gli altri due capitani che comandavano  rispettivamente la Pinta e la Niña, gli  andalusi Martín  Alonso Pinzón e Vicente Yañez, alcuni ufficiali e funzionari della flotta e il notaio Rodrigo Escobedo che doveva redigere gli atti protocollari. Tutti resero grazie al Signore baciando la terra e l’Ammiraglio ne dichiarò il possesso per il re e la regina di Spagna, suoi sovrani, coloro che avevano reso possibile la realizzazione di quel sogno cominciato tanti anni fa, quando il giovane marinaio genovese era giunto nella penisola iberica alla ricerca di qualcuno che credesse nella sua azzardata teoria: “trovare la via delle spezie arrivando nel  levante attraverso il ponente”.

Quel 12 ottobre però, mentre Escobedo scriveva parola per parola l’accaduto e i presenti firmavano come testimoni, in disparte, silenziosi, gli indigeni guardavano la scena senza sapere che la loro storia stava per finire: gli europei avevano “scoperto” la loro terra e se ne stavano appropriando, come se la loro millenaria presenza non avesse nessuna importanza, quasi che loro non fossero i legittimi proprietari. Infatti, nel suo Diario, Colombo avrebbe scritto: “Io dico che la cristianità farà buoni affari con questi indiani... Con cinquanta uomini  armati questa gente si può tenere tutta in dominio, e si potrà far fare loro tutto quello che si desidera... Saranno buoni servi e si potranno facilmente far cristiani poiché mi sembra che non appartengano a nessuna religione...”.

E fu  così, in nome di Cristo, che, a poco a poco, nei decenni successivi, non solo la Spagna bensì l’intera Europa che presto si rese conto dell’importanza economica e politica dell’impresa di Cristoforo Colombo,  schiavizzò quel Nuovo Mondo senza tener conto della sua secolare storia:  era  cominciata l’era  moderna, all’insegna  della sopraffazione e della violenza.

I gloriosi secoli d’oro della Spagna erano iniziati qualche mese prima, nel gennaio del 1492, quando Ferdinando di Aragona e Isabella di Castiglia riconquistarono  l’ultimo  baluardo spagnolo in mano agli arabi da otto secoli, il regno di Granada: era caduto l’ultimo ostacolo per dare il via all’avventura colombiana e finalmente la corona spagnola poteva finanziarla. Le reali casse si erano svuotate negli interminabili anni della Riconquista e in molte occasioni i vari sovrani avevano dovuto ricorrere ai prestiti dei mercanti e banchieri genovesi e fiorentini che da tempo abitavano in Spagna, soprattutto a Siviglia dove, grazie al suo fiume interamente navigabile, il Guadalquivir,  arrivavano le navi da ogni mare: tuttora vi sono infatti la “calle Genova”, la “calle de los florentinos”, la “calle Placentines”, dai numerosi piacentini che vi risiedevano e altre ancora.

Anche la Chiesa di Roma aveva contribuito, con benefici speciali o con la vendita di indulgenze, alle enormi spese che la Spagna si sobbarcava da secoli per riprendersi le terre che gli arabi le avevano sottratto. La presenza dell’infedele nel territorio iberico era una minaccia costante per la cristianità europea, sicché la Santa Sede era sempre stata generosa  nei confronti di quei monarchi spagnoli che da centinaia di anni combattevano l’Islam, soprattutto a partire dal 1469, quando con il matrimonio di Ferdinando di Aragona e Isabella di Castiglia si unirono i due regni più potenti della Spagna: per la loro costanza nella lotta contra gli arabi il papa Innocenzo VIII conferì loro il titolo di Re Cattolici. 

Perciò,  quando nel luglio del 1492 morì  Innocenzo VIII dopo anni di un papato infelice e debole, come debole era stata la sua salute e la sua carne (ebbe otto figli, alcuni dei quali abitavano con lui nel Vaticano!), i Re Cattolici si batterono per far nominare Papa un loro conterraneo: Alessandro VI, il cardinale  Rodrigo Borgia che avrebbe  anche  favorito la loro politica di espansione.

 Tacchini

Cristoforo Colombo era sicuramente consapevole di questo “scambio di favori” esistente fra i monarchi spagnoli e la Chiesa se in una lettera inedita trovata  soltanto nel 1988, scritta nel marzo del 1493, al ritorno del suo primo e trionfante viaggio americano,  pretendeva dai sovrani cattolici che ottenessero da  Papa Borgia  la nomina a cardinale per il figlio  adolescente Diego Colombo: né più né meno come pochi anni prima il quattordicenne Giovanni de Medici, figlio del Magnifico e futuro Leone X, aveva ottenuto da Innocenzo VIII.

Quando Colombo tornò dall’America  il Borgia emanò ben quattro bolle per definire i confini nei nuovi territori. Infine, nel luglio del 1493, insieme alla bolla “Inter caetera”, Alessandro VI fece pubblica la mappa con la celebre e famigerata “Raya”, ossia la riga che doveva delimitare i possedimenti  spagnoli nell’Oceano: tutto ciò che si trovava al di là della riga, tracciata all’orizzonte delle Azzorre, scoperto o da scoprire, apparteneva alla Spagna; tutto ciò che si trovava al di qua della riga, ossia a oriente, apparteneva al Portogallo, l’altro Paese in lizza per le terre oceaniche.

Con questo provvedimento si stabilirono i diritti spagnoli su Cuba, Hispaniola, le Bahamas e tutti gli altri luoghi d’oltreoceano individuati da Cristoforo Colombo. D’altronde il Santo Padre aveva da secoli il diritto inappellabile di aggiudicare la sovranità su ogni terra “mai posseduta da un principe cristiano”: una norma che da semplice consuetudine era ormai diventata legge internazionale rispettata da tutte le nazioni.

Ma al di là delle sopraffazioni, della violenza, degli inganni con i quali le potenze europee riuscirono a conquistare terre meravigliose e a dominare le popolazioni che vi abitavano da secoli,  da quell’incontro fra i due  mondi, il Vecchio e il Nuovo, nacque una vera e propria  “rivoluzione” nelle cucine della Vecchia Europa. Una grande trasformazione che fu possibile grazie a Cristoforo Colombo, a suo figlio Ferdinando,  e più tardi ai cosiddetti “conquistatori”, Hernán Cortez, Pizarro e tanti altri, per non parlare  dei numerosi religiosi, degli  studiosi o dei botanici che   a  poco a poco portarono in Europa i semi e le piante di quelle specie  sconosciute nel  mondo occidentale che avrebbero, appunto,  rivoluzionato la  gastronomia europea e contribuito a migliorare la vita dell’uomo nel campo della medicina  e del  lavoro.

Nella  Cartuja di Siviglia,  un  antico  monastero certosino -“cartuja” vuol dire “certosa” in spagnolo- che  è  stato durante i primi anni della Scoperta dell’America il luogo prediletto di  Cristoforo Colombo per riflettere e riposare prima e  dopo  ogni viaggio, arrivavano  i semi di quelle  nuove piante, specialmente quelle  commestibili di cui gli indigeni si nutrivano,

Sicuramente   molte di quelle  pianticelle  costituirono il primo nucleo  del  gran giardino-orto “americano” che Ferdinando Colombo, il figlio minore dell'ammiraglio genovese,  piantò  a partire dal 1510, quando decise di  rimanere a vivere nei pressi del monastero per stare vicino al corpo del padre defunto, che inizialmente vi fu sepolto, mentre attualmente si trova nella Cattedrale della capitale andalusa. Di quel giardino è rimasto, secondo la leggenda, un gigantesco “ombù”, un albero originario  dall’Argentina  e dal Perù,  chiamato  anche “bella ombra” per le enormi dimensioni che raggiunge.

Al porto di  Siviglia arrivarono dunque piante allora ritenute “esotiche”, come il  cacao, il mais, il pomodoro, il peperone,  il peperoncino, alcuni tipi di fagioli e di zucche gialle (per esempio  le mantovane impiegate per i ripieno dei tortelli),  il girasole,  l’ananas, la vaniglia, le patate  dolci, le zucchine, i cetrioli, e persino le noccioline, cibi che, essendo “di magro”, potevano essere  consumati in  grandi   quantità  dai frugali  monaci che per primi li coltivarono.   Piante  che nei secoli successivi all’impresa colombiana del 12 ottobre 1492 hanno cambiato il gusto degli europei   arricchendo le nostre tavole.

   Proviamo  per  un momento soltanto ad immaginare tutti i  piatti della  cucina regionale italiana dove non appare  il pomodoro: sono veramente pochi. Ebbene, come scriveva lo storico Piero Camporesi,  la cucina italiana, che oggi è praticamente “imbrattata  di rosso”,  non utilizzò la salsa di pomodoro fino  alla fine del Settecento quando il pomodoro venne finalmente ritenuto un alimento e non solo una  pianta ornamentale.

E la polenta “gialla” preparata con la farina di mais? Che sarebbe stato di generazioni di contadini veneti e lombardi  senza un così prezioso  alimento? Oppure senza le patate;  per  non parlare delle    buone ricette di dolci al cioccolato:  sono cibi arrivati dal Nuovo Mondo, che con umiltà, come succede con le grandi cose, hanno cambiato la storia della gastronomia europea e  sfamato migliaia  di persone.

Insomma, da quel 12 ottobre 1492, e nonostante gli spargimenti di sangue, il Vecchio Mondo europeo incontrò il Nuovo Mondo americano, e sotto molti punti di vista ambedue trassero profitto da quell’incontro, perché vi furono scambi di ogni tipo: ad esempio mentre la canna da zucchero, portata dagli arabi in Europa, viaggiava verso l’America insieme con una coppia di maiali, quelle stesse navi ritornavano con altrettanti tacchini e con i semi di cacao.

E così Cristoforo  Colombo, che era partito per cercare la rotta delle spezie verso l’Oriente, si ritrovò per sbaglio nel bel mezzo di un continente allora a noi sconosciuto dove le spezie che lui cercava, il pepe, la cannella e altre,  non c’erano mentre abbondavano tantissimi altri prodotti che ormai fanno parte della nostra tavola quotidiana: dalla patata, “sfamatrice” universale di milioni di esseri umani, al tacchino, appunto, che regna incontrastato sulle tavole natalizie e che l’Ammiraglio, vedendolo per prima volta nella sua vita descrisse nel suo Diario come  “una enorme gallina con la lana sotto il becco”.

Quanto alla patata, protagonista indiscussa della cucina tedesca, irlandese, inglese e anche spagnola con la tipica “tortilla de patatas”,  non arrivò in Europa con Cristoforo Colombo bensì con i “conquistadores” dell’Estremadura, quando arrivarono nel Perù: questo umile tubero  è infatti originario della fascia andina del Perù e della Bolivia, dove viene detto nella lingua degli incas, il “quechua”,  “papa”, che significa appunto “tubero”.

Ebbene, nella Estremadura,  la regione che si trova a confine con il Portogallo culla di Pizarro,  Nuñez de Balboa, Valdivia, Orellana, Hernán Cortes, alcuni dei molti avventurieri che nel Cinquecento seguirono le orme di Cristoforo  Colombo, la patata fu inizialmente chiamata  “turma de tierra”, che letteralmente significa “testicoli di terra”, l’appellativo popolare dei  tartufi in quella regione della Spagna dove il pregiato  fungo fa  parte di molti  piatti tradizionali: si racconta  che   quei soldati  portarono  le prime  patate  nascoste nei  loro  sacchi di viaggio con la  convinzione di  aver trovato  un raro tartufo finalmente coltivabile alla portata di  tutti!

Vi sono d’altronde centinaia di storie,  leggende, racconti infiniti  sui prodotti che arrivarono in Europa dall’America a partire da quel 12 ottobre 1492 e sui quali sono stati scritti interi volumi che compongono il grande romanzo della nuova cucina europea.

Ma, per finire, all’insegna delle commemorazioni di oggi per l’anniversario del “Descubrimiento de America”, la “Scoperta dell'America”, quello che  gli americani  chiamano il “Columbus day”,  quando Cristoforo Colombo e  l’equipaggiamento spagnolo delle tre caravelle più celebri della storia arrivarono nel “nuovo” continente, ecco un menù che senza i cibi “americani” non sarebbe stato possibile e che i lettori possono preparare per il pranzo di oggi:

 *Antipasto:  peperoni e pomodori gratinati

 * Primo: polenta al sugo di pomodoro

 *Secondo:  tacchino al forno con patate arrosto

  *Dessert:  torta di  cioccolato al rhum e macedonia di ananas con gelato di arachidi.

    E, infine,  dopo  una tazza di profumato caffè coltivato in  Brasile dove i portoghesi portarono i semi,   ai  fumatori incalliti  è  permesso  un  sigaro “toscano”  o  una  sigaretta:   non dimentichiamo che anche il tabacco è un’eredità americana!    



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